Sunday, January 20, 2013

Bully Breed Rescue Organizations


Bama Bully Rescue
Rescue a Bull


None known


Mayday Pit Bull Rescue
Ruff Road Rescue
Valley of the Sun Pit Bull Rescue
Tough Love Pit Bull Rescue


Gentle Souls Pit Bull Rescue
Pit Bull Ambassador of Northwest Arkansas 


Change of Heart Pit Bull Rescue
Bad Rap
Our Pack Pit Bull Rescue
Pit Bull Rescue of San Diego
It's The Pits
Shorty's Rescue
Fresno Bully Rescue
Angel City Pit Bulls
Karma Rescue
AnnRo Pit Bull Rescue
Orange County Pit Bull Rescue
Pit Crew


Colorado Pit Bull Rescue
Peanut's Place Bully Rescue


Bully Breed Rescue, Inc
Angel Capone Pit Bull Rescue
Karuna Bully Rescue


Response-a-Bull Rescue
Delaware Pit Bull Rescue
Pit Bull Pride of Delaware
Faithful Friends Animal Society


Southwest Florida Pit Bull Rescue
Central Florida Pit Bull Rescue
Pit Bull Happenings
Second Chance Pit Bull Rescue
The Pit Bull Crew Dog Rescue
Orlando Bully Rescue
Pit Stop Bully's Rescue
Ethical Bully Breed Rescue
Rugaz Rescue
Tampa Bay Bullies
Pit Bull Rescue of South Florida
Buster's and Foster's Haven Rescue


BullyWag, Inc
All or Nothing Pit Bull Rescue
Shelter Angels Pit Bull Rescue
BullsEye Rescue Atlanta
Shelter Angels Pit Bull Rescue


Maui Pit Bull Rescue


Boise Pit Bull Rescue

Illinois Pit Bull Rescue:

A and S Rescue
Midwest Rescue of Illinois
Bombshell Bullies Pit Bull Rescue
Chicagoland Bully Breed Rescue
It's a Pittie Rescue


Northeast Indiana Pit Bull Rescue
Castaway Pit Bull Rescue
Casa Del Toro Pit Bull Rescue


None known


None known


None known


Villalobos Rescue Center


None known


Always Strong: Pit Bull Rescue and Relocation
Tough Love Pit Bull Rescue
Mid Atlantic Bully Buddies


Brave Heart Pit Bull Rescue
Pittie Love Rescue Inc


Michigan Pit Bull Rescue
The Buster Foundation
Mid Michigan Pit Bull Rescue
Detroit Bully Corps


Minnesota Pit Bull Rescue
Save A Bull of Minnesota
Gentle Souls Pit Bull Rescue
Underdog Rescue
A Rotta Love Plus


Shaw Pit Bull Rescue


Missouri Pit Bull Rescue
Broken Hearts, Mended Souls Rescue
Mid-American Bully Breed Rescue


Montana's Pit Bull Rescue Resource Center


None known


Bullies Buddies of Las Vegas
Peace Love and Pit Bulls

New Hampshire:

None known

New Jersey:

Pitty Rescue, Inc

New Mexico:

Villalobos Pit Bull Rescue

New York:

Pitty Love
NY Bully Crew
Out of The Pits
Smilin' Pit Bull Rescue

North Carolina:

Second Chance Pit Bull Rescue of North Carolina
Southern Belle Pit Bull Rescue
Fugee's Rescue
St. Francis of Assisi's Bully Breed Rescue

North Dakota:

4 Luv of Dog Rescue


My Pitt Is Itt Rescue and Advocacy Group
Mercy's Door Pet Rescue
Measle's Animal Haven
Luv-a-Bulls Rescue, Inc


Pit Bull Rescue Oklahoma
Bully Breed Humane Society


Born Again Pit Bull Rescue
Oregon Pit Bull Rescue
GoodFella's Rescue
Dead Dog Walking Pit Bull Rescue


Sweet Bark Pit Bull Rescue
Sunrays Pit Bull Resuce
Hello Bully
Good Dog Adoption Agency, Inc

Rhode Island:

Outbound Hounds

South Carolina:

South Carolina Pit Bull Rescue
Long Road Home Pit Bull Rescue
New Hope Pit Bull Rescue
Little Rascals Pit Bull Rescue
SC Pit Rescue
Carolina Bully Breed Rescue
Carolina Care Bullies

South Dakota:

Sioux Empire Pit Bull Rescue


East Tennessee Pit Bull Rescue
Bless the Bullies
Break the Chain Pit Bull Rescue
Hearts of Gold Pit Bull Rescue
Pit Happens Pit Bull Rescue
Pit Bull Awareness of Tennessee


Texas Pit Bull and Bully Breed Rescue
Long Way Home Sanctuary
R.A.S. Pit Bull Rescue
Guardian Pit Bull Rescue
Don't Bully Me Rescue Texas


Have Pittie: Pit Bull Rescue of Utah


None known


Misunderstood Pit Bull Rescue
Rainbow Animal, Inc
Ambassador Pit Bull Rescue
Bully Paws
Depend-A-Bull Rescue
Ring Dog Rescue
Virginia Paws for Pits
Odessa Rescue & Rehabilitation


Bullseye Dog Rescue
For the Love of Rescues
Pacific Northwest Pit Bull Rescue
CW Bully Breed Rescue

West Virginia:

None known


Wisconsin Independent Pit Bull Rescue
Mecca's Pit Bull Rescue
Brew City Bully Club
Midwest Area Pit Stop, Inc


None known

Saturday, January 19, 2013


* All of the information below is from the book "The Complete Game Dog" - Ed and Chris Faron*

"An outcross is taking two dogs that are basically unrelated and breeding them together. Usually this means dogs who have no common ancestors within the first four to five generations. As mentioned above, outcrossing is an excellent way to reverse inbreeding depression, and is also useful for breeding characteristics into your dogs that you have either lost, or never had. For instance if you have managed to develop a line of dogs that have tremendous gameness, but lack mouth, you might outcross to a dog that has a great mouth.

For this to be completely successful, you should ideally try to go with a dog that is down from several generations of hard mouthed dogs and not just a 'fluke', and dogs that are also fairly deep game as well. If you were to use a hard mouthed cur as your outcross, you might get the mouth you were looking for but you are taking a step backwards because you're going to lose some of the precious deep gameness you worked so hard to produce consistently.

Some lines cross together better than others; you might want to choose something that has already proven in the past to go well with your line, but on the other hand, there are probably many great breedings people missed out on because "it's never been done before". There has to be a first time for everything, and your 'experimental' outcross may turn out to be one of the best breedings ever made.

Any breeding you do should have a purpose, that is, there should be a specific reason behind why you are doing that breeding. Inbreeding for the sake of convenience or just because it's inbreeding is not selective breeding. Are you breeding your bitch back to her father because he is an outstanding producer and she is one of his best offspring, or are you just doing it because it's a father/daughter breeding? A certain pattern of breeding alone does not automatically denote quality, it's the individual dogs that were bred together that are important.

Likewise, randomly and repeatedly outcrossing serves no real purpose. For instance, you could take a scatterbred bitch that was sort of a Heinzl/Patrick/Eli/Sorrels bitch, and cross her to a male that was Alligator/Panama Red breeding, and then take a bitch of that breeding and breed her to a dog who has a little Redboy/Jocko blood, and maybe breed one of those pups to a Zebo/Boomerang dog. At the end of all of this, you will still have a purebred, registered American Pit Bull Terriers, but that is about all you will have. You won't have a family or bloodline of any sort.

Dogs bred this way can sometimes be great individuals but are a challenge (often even a disappointment) to breed because they seldom will consistently reproduce themselves. This is not to say an outcrossed dog cannot be a good producer or a valuable part of your breeding program, but if you just keep on outcrossing aimlessly, you are very unlikely to retain any of the traits that made the dogs good in the first place.

A solid breeding program usually involves various combinations of both inbreeding and outcrossing. Outcross to get the qualities you need and then inbreed to lock them into your line. For instance, you could do a father/daughter breeding with two of your best dogs, keep the best pair off that, breed the bitch to a male from a different bloodline, keep the best bitch off that litter and god back into the father or uncle with it, and so forth. If you look at many of today's top bloodlines, you will see in many cases that the breeder has made a foundation of a few key dogs, and crossed offspring of these dogs back and forth, throwing in a little of something completely different ever now and then.

The first part of making any breeding is selecting your broodstock; different people will of course have different priorities in choosing which dogs they will be breeding together. Decide what it is that is important to you, i.e.. what qualities you are looking for in a dog, and then do your homework looking for a line of dogs that is consistently throwing those qualities.

Have a rough idea in your mind of what is the minimum acceptable level of quality in a dog for your breeding program, and try to stick with it when choosing your foundation stock, but you have to know when to make an exception if you feel it will be positive for your yard, one example would be if you don't like cold dogs but have a chance to acquire a col bitch that is producing winners like crazy.

In performance, it is what the dog does that is important, but in breeding the single most important thing is if the dog can produce what you are looking for. There are many an 'ace' out there who never threw a dog that was as good as they were (and a few that unfortunately seemed to have trouble producing even average quality dogs) and such a dog has no value as a brood dog. On the other hand, there have also been many dogs throughout history that produced much better dogs that they themselves were.

When you are starting out breeding dogs, one good way to begin would be to buy an older, proven brood bitch that has the qualities you are looking for and has already begun to show that she can throw those qualities. Take that bitch and breed her to a quality stud, maybe a dog bred similar to what she has already produced well with. If you kept as many of those pups as possible so that you could see which ones turned out and pick the very best, and did that each time you bred her, in just a few short years, you could have a yard of dogs as good as any in the country.

If you cannot afford a proven bitch, get a well bred bitch pup, or a few good bred bitch pups to raise up and breed. Instead of spending thousands of dollars filling up your yard with pups, prospects and grown dogs you've bought, with a little patience you could breed your own. Unfortunately, not all dogs are going to work out to be what you want them to be, but with the latter method all you have waster is your time and some dog food rather than a large amount of money.

If the first generation off your foundation bitch give you some solid bulldogs, you could then do various breedings back and forth with half brothers and sisters off her, sons back to her, and so forth - always keeping only the very best - and make this bitch the foundation of your yard. Maybe even take a few of her daughters and breed them to good stud dogs off your yard, to get males that you could then breed back to your bitch if they work out.

We say a bitch because it is easier to do this with a brood bitch that a stud dog, because with the bitch, for the price of the airline ticket and a stud fee you have your choice of any male in the country standing at stud. With a male, once you have gotten a good dog you have to then purchase some quality bitches to breed him to.

The important thing, however you start out, is to know what is is you want, develop an eye for recognizing it, and don't fall into the pattern of kennel blindness (pretending what you want is there when it isn't). Learn as much as you can not just about the blood you're working with, but other bloodlines in general. Don't hesitate to bring in with what you already have, and don't hesitate to get rid of what you have and start over if it just isn't working.

As to what it is you want to breed for, that is a matter of personal opinion. Different people breed for different reasons, there is nothing wrong with that unless of course you are breeding for one thing but misleading people you sell pups to into thinking you are breeding for something else; i.e. it's not wrong to breed for big, pretty dogs if that's what you like but it is wrong to try and sell them as game-bred dogs if you aren't breeding for gameness."

Tuesday, January 15, 2013

Conditioned vs. Skinny vs. Emaciated vs. Overweight vs. Obese

There has been so much talk lately on this type of thing which made me want to write a post on this specific subject to hopefully clear some things up. Many have a different perspective on how a dog should look. However, just because someone thinks that a dog's healthy weight is overweight or obese and thinks that the dog is in good shape is obviously very wrong because in my opinion the only real healthy weight for a dog is its conditioned weight. Then again, I have to say that a healthy and lean dog is also just fine. There's some pet owners out there who keep their dogs healthy and keep their dogs at a nice weight and their dogs are lean and in good shape, it may not be a conditioned weight, but their dogs definitely look better than most dogs and the dog's are at least healthy, at a good weight and aren't emaciated/skinny, overweight or obese.

Here are some fine examples of some conditioned dogs:

The above dogs are very well conditioned. The above dogs are healthy and are in good shape. In no way, shape or form are the above dogs skinny or emaciated in anyway. Compare the above dogs to an athlete. Athletes are lean yet muscular, they eat a good diet, they supplement, they exercise, they keep themselves healthy and well fit. American Pit Bull Terriers are athletes. American Pit Bull Terriers can be conditioned by eating a good diet (I recommend a raw food diet), taking supplements and being exercised properly. If you think the above dogs are skinny or emaciated, you're very wrong as the above dogs look amazing and are clearly in great shape. If you think the above dogs are skinny or emaciated, educate yourself! Take the time to read books written on and about the American Pit Bull Terrier and learn something other than sitting around commenting and talking bull crap to others. Take advice from other reputable bulldog owners and enthusiasts as many of them know what they're talking about. There's a saying that goes along the lines of "Keep your ears open and your mouth shut." This goes for people who have no idea what they are talking about. If you believe that the above dogs are "too skinny, emaciated, abused, etc", you obviously know nothing about bulldogs, nutrition or conditioning because if you did, you'd know about this kind of thing by now.

Shall we look at some examples of some conditioned athletes for comparison?

Think of it this way: Conditioned is an athlete. Emaciated is anorexic.

Here are some examples of skinny and emaciated dogs:

The above dogs are clearly too skinny (also known as emaciated). The above dogs are in no way, shape or form healthy and are clearly underweight and in distress. Skinny/emaciated is not to be confused with conditioned. Matter of fact, I don't know why conditioned would even be mistaken for skinny/emaciated. There's a clear difference between conditioned dogs and skinny/emaciated dogs. Do not deny the difference and if you cannot see the difference, please do us all a big favor and educate yourself. If you still don't see the difference or don't want to learn, you have no business being and enthusiast of this breed nor owning these dogs nor "educating" others about this breed of dog. It's not just this breed, it's all breeds.

In my honest opinion, skinny and emaciated are basically the same thing. I don't believe there's much of a difference, if any, of skinny vs. emaciated.

Let's take a look at "emaciated", anorexic and extremely skinny people for comparison:

Examples of overweight dogs:

The above dogs are clearly overweight. Overweight dogs are commonly seen because one, people don't want to take the time to exercise and put their dogs on a good diet, two, people think that the above examples are a healthy weight (probably also because of what their stupid vet told them), three, people aren't well educated on this subject, four, people obviously don't care. A dog who is overweight is not healthy and so is a person who is overweight is not healthy. If your dog looks anything like the above dogs, please get your dog onto a good exercise routine and get him started on a good diet. If you want to condition your dog, read and educate yourself on how to. If your dog is overweight, there's no excuse. If you own a dog, keep him well fit and cared for properly.

Here are some tips for all of you pet dog owners out there:

For exercise, take your dog for one to two long walks a day. Swimming, fetching, spring pole and flirt pole are other exercises that you can combine and make part of your dog's daily exercise routine which will include the daily walks.

As for diet, feed a high protein, grain free dog food. Merrick Grain Free is great, but other dog foods that you can look into are Orijen, Acana and Back to Basics. You can also go to your grocery store and pick up some chicken breasts, but if your dog is allergic to chicken, look into turkey breasts, ground beef or plain canned sardines. You can cut up half of the chicken (raw or cooked) and put it into your dog's kibble for extra protein. If you're dog is allergic to chicken, feed either a half of a turkey breast, 1 cup ground beef or 1 can plain sardines.

Let's now take a look at some overweight people for comparison:

Examples of obese dogs:

Obesity is a serious issue across the nation. The obese dogs above are clearly in distress. Take a look at wild dogs, wild dogs keep themselves in the shape they need to and eat a great diet without any help from a human being. Dogs aren't suppose to be overweight or obese, it's not natural. Think of people who are obese and think of all the health issues obesity leads to. Think about it a bit more, how do you think your dog feels?

Finally, lets take a look at some obese people for comparison:

I hope that this will clear up the differences between conditioned, skinny, emaciated, overweight and obese. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Images belong to (in order from first to last photo):

NY Daily News
Blogspot (don't know exactly what blog it belongs to)
Working Pit Bull
Working Pit Bull
Blogspot (don't know exactly what blog it belongs to)
Cdn.motinetwork (

Images of different people that were used as a comparison in this blog belong to or were from: (Usain Bolt) (Michael Phelps) (not sure who the guy is pictured, but he is a sprinter)

Tuesday, January 1, 2013

Dog Fighting Paraphernalia

Dog fighting paraphernalia is a list of items that are said to be that if you own it, you're a dog fighter. In this post, we'll be talking about what is thought to be dog fighting paraphernalia and what the items are used for and why the "paraphernalia" used does not make you or anyone else a dog fighter.

Spring pole/flirt pole
Slat mill/carpet mill/treadmill
Cat mill (jenny)
Medical supplies
Drag sleds
Weight pulling harnesses
Break stick
Large amounts of money
Barrel dog housing
Conditioned dog
Books/magazines/journals/DVDs on the breed
Weighted collars
Human drugs (such as marijuana and cocaine)
Prong collars
Heavy duty dog collars
Above the ground kennels

Spring pole/flirt pole: The spring pole and flirt pole is a great exercise tool that is commonly used by American Pit Bull Terrier owners as well as owners of other bully breeds. Both tools are perfectly safe and effective. The spring pole and the flirt pole are both great ways to exercise and "work" your dog. American Pit Bull Terriers are a breed of dog that loves the spring and flirt pole. Hide attached to the pole is a very common thing used a "tug" for the dog. Dogs love the hide - they go crazy for hide. You cannot force a dog to use the spring pole or flirt pole, it's absolutely impossible to force a dog to do so.

Here are some examples of dog's working the spring pole and flirt pole: - no one is touching the dog, dog is working the spring pole himself, no one's forcing the dog to do what he is doing - once again, no one is touch the dog, the dog is working the hide himself, no one's forcing the dog to work the hide - same as what is said above, dog isn't being forced to work the hide - same as what is said above, dog isn't being forced to work the spring pole - dog working the flirt pole, I don't see the dog being forced to do anything here, he's loving it! - dog working the flirt pole, no harm is seen or done here

Show me one, all I ask for is ONE video of where a dog is being forced to work both a spring pole and a flirt pole. You'll never find one, so quit bitching and whining about it.

Slat mill/carpet mill/e-mill: All are great tools. I've written a blog post on all three which you can find in previous posts on this blog. All four are all great exercise tools. The slat-mill and carpet-mill are powered by the DOG. If the dog walks/runs, it moves with the dog. If the dog stops, it stops. The dog has control over the slat-mill and the carpet-mill. The dog can choose how fast he wants to run, whether he wants to stop, etc. The treadmill (or e-mill) is a bit different. I don't necessarily like the treadmill because a treadmill isn't powered by the dog. You also can't go up in speed with a treadmill, it can be dangerous to the dog. The treadmill also does not have benefits like the slat-mill and carpet-mill does.

Here are some great videos on dog's working the mill by themselves: - dog is not being forced to run on the carpet mill or even walk on it, he can slow down or stop at anytime as seen in the video - no forcing is shown here - this dog is clearly enjoying himself greatly on the slat mill. Like said above, he can start, slow down and stop himself at anytime he wants - no forcing is shown here - another example of a dog on the slat mill greatly enjoying himself and he seems very excited and happy like the dogs shown above do as well. This dog can start, slow down and stop himself at anything that he wants - no forcing is shown here - dog is not being forced to walk on this treadmill. If he wanted to stop, he would stop and slide right off the treadmill, but he's walking on the treadmill himself - once again, the dog is not being forced to walk on the treadmill.

Turntable: You don't see many using the turntable anymore. The turntable is a great tool, however. Those who use it love it. The turntable is a great and proper exercising tool that a dog can walk/run on.

Cat mill (jenny): The cat mill (also known as a jenny) is a great tool to use in exercising your dog. The cat mill takes up a lot of space which is why a lot of owners of the breed don't have a cat mill. The cat mill can have a cage attached to it which will allow you to place an animal such as a cat (hence the name cat mill since cats were one of the most common animals placed in the cage of a cat mill), raccoon, possum, badger, squirrel, etc. The cat-mill is powered by the DOG.

Here are some examples of dogs being exercised using the cat mill/jenny: - this dog started himself and can slow down and stop at anytime. There is no harm or forcing being done in this video - dog starts, slows down and stops himself throughout the video, no forcing or abuse done here! - no forcing or abuse in this video either, just a guy that built his dog a proper exercise tool and is properly exercising his dog

Antibiotics/medicine/supplements: I look at you as a responsible American Pit Bull Terrier owner if you have any of these on your yard. You are NOT considered a dog fighter to me or to the majority of others. The people who are going to look at you as a dog fighter are what they call "advocates" and "activists" as well as animal rights organizations, rescues and shelters.
Antibiotics/medicine/supplements makes you a responsible owner, not a dog fighter.

Medical supplies: Every responsible American Pit Bull Terrier owner/breeder (or dog owner in general)should always have medical supplies stocked up at all times just like they should always have antibiotics/medicine/supplements at all times as well. Medical supplies are not only needed, but can save your dog's life in an emergency. Check out Ready Dog, if you'd like to purchase a first-aid kit:

Drag sleds: Drag sleds are used as weight pulling sleds. Safe and effective. I've never in my life seen a dog hurt him or herself from weight pulling and/or pulling a drag sled. The drag sled is also powered by the DOG.

Here are some videos on dogs using the drag sled: - dog starts himself and can slow down and stop himself at anytime, dog is enjoying himself - once again, dog starts himself and can slow down and stop himself at anytime. Dog is once again, enjoying himself - this dog is just awesome, he's actually a bully that can work! He's clearly enjoying himself

Weight pulling harnesses: Weight pulling is a great activity to get your dog involved in, and is not cruel in anyway, shape or form. There's so many breeds that are involved in weight pulling, weight pulling is an all breed sport. Weight pulling harnesses are used strictly for weight pulling. Weight pulling has nothing whatsoever to do with dog fighting. There are multiple breeds of dogs that are involved in weight pulling, it's not just the American Pit Bull Terrier. I have seen it all, Toy Poodles to Chihuahuas to Huskies to Rottweilers to Schnauzers to American Bullies to Newfoundlands to Saint Bernards weight pulling, just look up videos on the internet and you will see for yourself. As you can see, weight pulling is not just for pit bulls, it's for any and every breed of dog.

Chains: Chains can be used by anyone who owns a dog, not just American Pit Bull Terrier owners. I've seen all different types of breeds on proper chain setups. Do not think for a second that just because a dog is on a chain means that it never gets off. Most people don't have their dogs on a proper chain setup or won't take the time out of their day to educate themselves on building a proper chain setup. My personal opinion is that if you can't take the time to build a proper chain setup or afford to do so, you shouldn't have a dog if that's the way you're going to keep your dog. There's a few different ways to build a proper chain setup, I'm going to share one set up out of a few other's that you can follow by:

Starting from the ground up: Axle - axle ring - 2 lap links/quick links - 2 lap links/quick links - chain - 2 lap links - swivel - 2 lap links - 2 o rings (slip through collar) - collar

I've seen the worst of the worst chain setups and every time I see a bad chain setup, the dogs are usually (not all of the time, but most) kept in poor condition (don't have proper shelter or any shelter at all, no food or water or the food/water is moldy and is growing algae, the collars are extremely tight and are too small, etc). Dogs that are living in poor condition are the ones that are not being cared for properly. The majority of people who have their dogs on a proper chain setup are usually going to have their dogs in good condition. It really all comes down to caring for your dog properly. If you can't care for your dog, don't own a dog.

Chaining a dog is NOT cruel. If you think that chaining is cruel, educate yourself on the topic and you, yourself will see that chaining is not a cruel thing as most people portray it to be. Chaining your dog is the safest way to contain your dog. Safely containing your dog is a must and a proper chain setup will contain your dog safely. I do recommend that if you are building a proper chain setup or already have one that you check your dog's chain spot and setup everyday to ensure that nothing is broken, loose or looks like it's fixing to break.

Keep your dog's chain spot completely clean and free of feces, limbs, lots of leaves, rocks, tall grass, etc., and clean your dog's chain spot often. Provide your dog with a proper source of shelter and good bedding and be sure to replace bedding often. Provide your dog with fresh food and water and replace food and water each and every day, and be sure to scrub and clean those bowls good every day! Do not leave your dog on his or her chain 24/7, that's just carelessness, irresponsibility and pure laziness. Provide your dog with lots of good exercise each and every day.

Just an example, here's Eric Emminger the founder of Pit Bull Happenings Rescue showing you how he properly chains his dog, Freeway: 

Here's a great article on chaining vs penning:

Break Sticks: If you own a break stick, you're being a responsible dog owner. I believe that every dog owner should own a break stick, especially every bully breed owner. A break stick can potentially save both dog's lives if your dog has gotten into a fight. If your dog does get into a fight, a break stick can easily be used to break your dog's grip that he/she has onto the other dog. Many say that break sticks are cruel (keep in mind that these people are ones who are so called activist, advocates, rescues, shelters and animal rights organizations) and should never be used, when in fact they can save your dog's life!

The difference between them not using a break stick and you (the responsible one) using the break stick is that you're breaking up a fight responsibly and quickly while the other's don't know what the hell they're doing and don't know how to properly break up a dog fight (they're usually the ones that kick the dog's, hit the dogs, scream at the dog's, do nothing, try and open the dog's mouth with their hands, etc). If you want to properly break up a dog fight, the break stick is the way to go. You should also be experienced and know what to do when a dog gets into a fight (the steps to take and the steps not to take and the do's and the don'ts). You should also be patient, calm yet quick and firm when breaking up a fight.

Break-sticks are also commonly used during hunting. Plenty of hog-hunters use them as well.

Pedigrees: It seems that pedigrees containing CH and GR CH automatically makes you a dog fighter since many believe that since the pedigree contain either/or or both then you're breeding fighting dogs. A lot of pedigrees do contain both CH and GR CH, but that doesn't mean that you're a dog fighter. Pedigrees are what make up your dog's lineage and heritage. Pedigrees are fascinating in my opinion, I love studying pedigrees, which many people do. In today's day and age, CH and GR CH doesn't always mean fighting dogs, it can also mean the dog is a CH or GR CH in another activity (such as conformation).

Large amounts of money: It seems as though every time there's a raid, the authorities start searching for money which they believe is used to place bets on the dog's and used in gambling. A large amount of money has nothing to do with dog fighting or gambling, and has nothing to do with dog fighting. There's more gamblers in the world that there are people fighting dogs. While I do not recommend keeping large amounts of money around your house, it doesn't link to dog fighting. The best thing to do with all that money is put it in the bank, where it belongs.

Barrel Dog Housing: Barrel dog housing has a "bad rap" by many. The majority of people think that barrel dog housing is a poor way to shelter your dog, and that barrel housing doesn't protect your dog against weather, etc. The fact of the matter is that barrel dog housing is one of the best types of housing that you can provide shelter to for your dog, depending on the climate that you live in, of course.

If barrel dog housing automatically means that you're a dog fighter, then what's with all of these hound, pointer, husky owners who use them? I guess that means they're fighting their hounds, pointers, and huskies, right? Barrel dog housing is used for many different breeds of dogs. Good housing for your dog is very important.

Here's a few links on how to build different dog houses:

To the people who use metal barrels as a dog house for their dogs, you either do not need dogs or you need to get a job to afford and learn how to provide proper housing for your dog, because metal barrels are not acceptable. Metal barrels get extremely cold in the winter, and extremely hot in the summer. They're also just a poor choice of "shelter" for a dog.

You can either buy a barrel dog house or make your own. Making your own is going to be so much cheaper, but if you'd be interested in buying a barrel dog house, go to The barrel dog house that K-9 Kondo has for sale is a barrel called "K-9 Kondo". You'll see the barrel housing, if you visit the website.

In order to make your own barrel housing, you will need to read below.

Some of the supplies you'll need:

  • 55 gallon drum barrel (color doesn't matter, but blue is commonly used)
  • Wheat straw AND cedar shavings
  • Skid and siding (to hold the barrel in place)
  • Bottom of dog house should not be sitting on ground, but be above the ground - see below for picture
  • Wooden piece in front of dog house (as seen in picture below)
Here is what the front of the barrel should look like:

See siding and bottom in this picture, the round "roof" is also really good to have:

Scars/wounds: Scars/wounds can mean so many different things. Dogs can cut themselves on their dog houses, get the scars during hunting, and yard accidents happen too sometimes. Just because an American Pit Bull Terrier has scars doesn't mean he's used as a fighting dog.

Conditioned Dog: To clear things up, conditioned dogs are not skinny, but very well conditioned, also known as healthy - think of an athlete and how they're built.

Examples of well conditioned American Pit Bull Terriers:

As you can see, the above dogs are very well conditioned. The above dogs are NOT skinny. These are all perfect examples of how an American Pit Bull Terrier should look. The last dog is also a conformation dog, keep that in mind. This is needed an appreciated in conformation showing.

Here are examples of emaciated dogs (skinny dogs):

There's a huge difference between conditioned and skinny. What's the difference? Both are nothing alike. Conditioned dogs are healthy, while emaciated (skinny) dogs are un-healthy. Conditioned dogs are well built, muscular and lean - good combination right here. Emaciated dogs (skinny) are very un-healthy and need to go through treatment to get well, they also need to gain weight.

Books/Magazines/Journals/DVDs: I don't understand why this would be considered dog fighting paraphernalia. I love reading about the American Pit Bull Terrier and have books on the American Pit Bull Terrier. There's nothing wrong with educating yourself and reading about the breed of your choice. The good American Pit Bull Terrier books are written by good dog-men., which usually always mentions dog fighting in the books (nothing wrong with this at all - it's part of the dog's history). This would be exactly the same as saying that anyone who owns books written on the Greyhound must race their hounds or anyone who owns books on hunting dogs must hunt with their dogs or anyone who owns books on dog breeding must breed their dogs.

Weighted Collars: Weighted collars are used to build muscle and upper body strength in a dog. The weighted collar is used for many different breeds of dogs. Take a look at Leerburg's website, they even sell them:

Drugs (marijuana, cocaine, etc): It is thought that anyone who owns a pit bull, and has marijuana or cocaine or any other drug on their property must be a dog fighter. If you listen closely to "dog fighting busts" on television, it will clearly state every time that "Police are currently looking for drugs (marijuana, cocaine, etc) leading to dog fighting in this arrest". What does marijuana and cocaine have anything to do with dog fighting? There's more people in the world that are using marijuana and cocaine than there is people fighting dogs. Human drugs have nothing to do with dog fighting whatsoever. And, drugs are never encouraged in the "dog fighting" world.

Prong Collars: A prong collar is a great training tool, if used correctly. Prong collars are in no way, shape or form cruel or inhumane. There's plenty of S&R, and police dogs who wear prongs. If you would like to know more about the use of a prong collar and how to use a prong collar, go to

Heavy duty dog collars: Heavy duty dog collars meaning 2" 4 ply collars or thicker/wider collars than this. American Pit Bull Terriers are often chained with a "wide and thick" collar on. Heavy duty dog collars are a must for the American Pit Bull Terrier breed, whether they're chained or not. Too thin and small of a collar will cause damage to the neck of any dog chained, this is why you should always use a thick and wide collar to protect your dog and to keep your dog safe. American Pit Bull Terriers are strong breeds of dogs and can easily break a 1/2" - 1" collar. Puppies can wear 1/2" to 1" collars, but I never recommend them for young dogs or adult dogs.

Above the ground kennels: Above the ground kennels are very useful. There's multiple hunting dog owners who use above the ground kennels to house their hunting dogs, and many American Pit Bull Terrier owners also use these kennels to house their dogs. The kennels are used mainly to house puppies and/or their mother, but are used to house dogs of all ages as well. The dogs should not kept in the kennel all day, every day and should be exercised and worked on a daily basis, as all dogs should be. Above the ground kennels come in many different sizes, depending on how you build them.

Here are some examples of what an above the ground kennel is:

Above the ground kennels can also look like this kennel:

Any kennel that is above the ground is known as an above the ground kennel. The good thing about the first three above the ground kennels listed is that many use them because they don't take up much room and are easy to maintain.

I hope that you enjoyed this particular post. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask!

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