Thursday, December 19, 2013

Animal Rights and Human Wrongs

I have often been amused to find that the book that is most often banned in countries which allow such things is The World of the American Pit Bull Terrier. There are a lot of things wrong with this country (although I dearly love it), but we can be thankful for the First Amendment. It does protect free speech. A book can not be banned just because you disagree with it or even if the entire world disagrees with it. 

The animal rights lunatics are not of that mind. If they get the chance, they will ban a book, and the book of mine I mentioned is their favorite target. Is this because I was overly blatant in that particular opus in defending or explaining the pit dog game? Perhaps. But I think a more likely explanation is that I included an entire chapter about the humane movement in regard to animals. No one has disputed the facts in the chapter, but obviously, there is a great desire to suppress them. Although I have been very critical of humaniacs, I struggle mightily to understand them. It is not difficult to do. Most of us love animals. Those of us who have become involved with a hobby aspect of dogs, whether it is showing, hunting, weight pulling, or other, even illegal, activities, have nearly always done so from having loved dogs so much that we wanted to do something more to justify putting in more time with them. So humaniacs (the word I invented to refer to the animal welfare lunatics) are not so difficult to understand. They just have taken things a little further than the rest of us. They are often successful and bright, with a little too much time on their hands. But even the brightest of them are criminally ignorant. I was once asked under cross examination if my term "humaniac" was meant to refer to those animal rights people who oppose dog fighting. I replied, "No, it was meant to refer to the lunatics who won’t listen to reason, the kind that castigate the San Diego Zoo for not giving the koalas water because they are so unenlightened they don’t realize that koalas don’t drink water!" If you are going to support laws that would put people in prison for years, it is incumbent, it would seem to me, upon such perpetrators to enlighten themselves about the activity they would like to stop. But they have not done that. They remain woefully ignorant, although a field director of one of the organizations travels the country, giving seminars on dog fighting, utilizing mainly the information he has gleaned from my books. But he is not adverse to filling in the gaps with his imagination. The people who attend his seminars are then certified as expert witnesses for court cases. It is these ignoramuses that I often must oppose in various court cases. Pit dogs are the cakes and ale of these humane groups. Any time they report incidents of dog fighting or their success in perpetrating legislation against it, the money simply pours into their coffers. Although they have not succeeded one bit in suppressing pit fighting, they have reaped more profits than anyone else. The most damning indictment of the animal rights lunatics is that they are ineffective at protecting animals, but they do cause human suffering. To some degree the tide is showing some signs of turning against the humaniacs. I just recently read an article in a medical journal in which the author maintains that the medical community erred greatly in ever trying to appease these lunatics. Scientists are often an easy target because they have difficulty explaining things in layman’s terms. Not every one of them is a Carl Sagan or Isaac Asimov. The first impulse of these physicians and scientists was to give in to all the new sentiments inherent in the animal rights groups by reducing the use of animals and replacing them in some way whenever possible. But this only emboldened the agitators. They were so ignorant that they wanted all the animal research eliminated and replaced with computer simulation. Where did they think that the information for the computer simulations came from? My vet tells me that he would hate to have the present day veterinary school graduates work on his dog. You see, animal surgery practice has been almost completely replaced in veterinary schools by computer simulation. It is not even close to the real thing. What had been used before were the cats and dogs from animal control. They were scheduled for death anyway, but this way they could be used to train veterinarians to do surgery before they were euthanized. They were under anesthetic the entire time, so they never suffered. The loonies have also had an impact on medical schools. Here is what animal rights people have accomplished for these institutions. There was a time that dogs and cats were utilized for surgical practice. They still have to be, to some degree, as there is nothing like the feel of real blood vessels and organs for learning techniques. The animals were originally animals slated to die from animal control. Again, they were under anesthesia, and they were euthanized while they were under, so they never suffered. In fact, it would be humane if we could all have such an easy death. But the humaniacs wielded their power. These animals could no longer be available, although they still had to be euthanized. So, now special dogs are raised strictly for the purpose of being used in practice surgeries. In other words, now two sets of dogs have to die. The old saying "with friends like these, you don’t need enemies" was never more apropos! The fact is that only one percent of the animals are used for research by scientists. The other 99 percent slated for an untimely demise are the farm animals. The animal rights advocates made a deliberate choice to go for the scientists and doctors because they were less organized and more accessible than the farmers. Not only are humaniacs stupid, they are cowardly and lazy! There I go again. I started out trying to be understanding of humaniacs and ended up by name calling. This is from the frustration of the harm they have done in destroying labs and the documentation involved in the studies, often setting back important medical research months, even years. And the fact is that the animals are generally well treated. Most of them are mice or rats, with only a few dogs, pigs, and cats being used. 

Many years ago, scientists were asked to identify the ten most important medical advances. There was a consensus, and later study revealed that all these advances were done through animal experimentation. Humaniacs would have us believe that all animals have the same rights as us. Ironically, they may have gotten that idea from science, as biology has revealed how we are all part of nature. But the concept of rights is a legal term, and only humans have rights, and they must necessarily be limited (to some degree). Surely we can have compassion for animals and still realize that there is a difference between a child and a rat. Although humaniacs are generally good people, they have a right to be embarrassed about some of their history. It has always been one of hyperbole. Using the term "vivisection," they were able to get nearly all the dog fanciers on their side, including the old time Pit Bull magazines. I have the old Bloodlines Journal and Pit and Pal magazines to prove it! Vivisection implied cutting an animal open without anesthesia, and such things almost never took place. Strangely enough, Germany bought into this hysteria more than any country, and the Nazi regime announced in 1933 that a person found vivisecting animals of any kind would immediately be transported to concentration camps. (Of course, Nazi scientists and doctors later committed heinous medical experiments upon Jews and other captives, twisting the ideals of science to their own means and elevating animals to a status they murderously denied fellow human beings.) The animal rights people love to propagate the fiction that every big time criminal and killer started out by abusing animals (That way they can raise the level of hysteria about animal abuse and gain even more money for themselves). But they overlook people like Adolf Hitler. He absolutely adored animals, and he was particularly fond of dogs. It was only people that he abused; no animal ever suffered at his hand. Not all animal welfare people can be tarred with the same brush, of course. Some of them are not as extreme as the terrorists that have destroyed laboratories. Some of them even agree with animals being used in research. But the question to me is: Do any of them do any good? Is it possible to eliminate animal suffering? Is it possible to even make a dent in it? Consider, if you will, one of the most beautiful sights in the world. That is the east plains of Africa. There are animals of every type off to the horizon, wildebeest, zebras, antelope, lions, cheetahs, and leopards. They are beautiful, and the sight of them touches the heart. And yet, every single animal is likely to eventually die a horrible death. The prey animals will eventually be pulled down by predators. The predators are doomed to death by starvation, infection, or parasitism. Some of them may live relatively long lives, but even those will be weakened enough by age that they can’t hunt or are taken down by disease. Nature really is bloody of tooth and red of claw. All biologists know that these are the facts, and yet they would not eliminate the wilderness areas. The only way the suffering can be eliminated is by destroying all living things, as suffering is a part of life for all of us. Unfortunately, I don’t think that it is mere happenstance, the animal welfare people are unconcerned, from all appearances, about preserving wilderness habitats. Perhaps it is also not surprising that some groups advocate an end to the American Pit Bull Terrier, for its own good, of course! Even with domestic animals, it is my observation that the humane groups rarely do any good for animals. Let’s face it. Most people like animals, and they aren't going to abuse them. Parents teach children to be kind and gentle with animals. On the rare occasions that people actually abuse animals, no one is around to witness it. What kinds of cases, then, are prosecuted? Well, to take just two recent examples from my neck of the woods, an elderly woman was arrested and her cats confiscated (and put down). She had taken in stray cats all her life. In her later years, she was not able to take them to the vet, so a few of them had problems with their skin, although they were being treated. The way I read it, the situation made my blood boil. This poor woman had obviously devoted her entire life to helping cats, and some blue noses got her charged with animal cruelty. How pitiless that must have seemed to her, but then, humaniacs are not concerned with cruelty to humans. Another case involved a Vietnam War veteran. In a wheel chair because of his war injuries, he had a nice country place, and he apparently liked game chickens. His chickens were all seized because they had their combs cut in the manner of fighting chickens. Like the dogs, the chickens have been bred from countless ancestors of warriors, so the chickens like to fight. There is little cruelty involved. Let’s have a reality check here. What is life like for most chickens? In the egg farm factories, it is not good, not even as good as the chickens portrayed in the movie "Chicken Run" (that I saw with my granddaughter)! 

A game chicken has a fight or two and then lives the life of a king. But the humaniacs, as usual, won’t listen to reason. And I say this as an impartial observer, as I have little interest in game chickens. I would rather be writing about dogs here, but perhaps the reader will forgive me for taking time out to vent a little in this article. The fact is that this commentary is not just therapy for my psyche. I wanted to sound a warning that there is a national, perhaps a world hysteria going on about animal abuse. Consequently, laws are being passed that have real teeth. And some of them are such stupid ones as forbidding that dogs ever be chained. As usual the humaniacs are ignorant and are unaware that show dog people keep their dogs in shipping crates in the house. The problem is that cruelty is in the eye of the beholder. Thus, laws get passed which amount to no violation of anyone’s rights, instead they merely violate some person’s sensitivities. Nevertheless, the laws are on the books, and I would encourage all dog people to be mindful of them. This hysteria, like all hysterias, will eventually pass. 

The question is how much damage will be done in the time it is in effect. Perhaps having dog people be wary but also aware of some of the facts about humaniacs will be useful. They don’t necessarily hold the moral high ground, but they can be dangerous all the same.

- Stratton 

Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Red Nose and Blue Nose

We will be discussing the difference between red nose and blue nose dogs and what this really means. Every time I go to a pet store or a "pit bull" event or basically anywhere where there's dogs, there's always someone who claims to have a "purebred red nosed pit bull" or "purebred blue nosed pit bull" or just a "red nosed pit bull" or "blue nosed pit bull" - both are the same things, just said differently. Most of the time these people have dogs with black noses that they are claiming to be "red nosed" or "blue nosed". So, what is a red nosed or blue nosed pit bull?

Well, first off, there's no such thing as a "red nosed pit bull" nor a "blue nosed pit bull" or any other nose color of a pit bull. There's not multiple breeds of pit bulls and the color of a pit bulls nose doesn't make it a different breed of pit bull. A dogs nose color is just a color - there's nothing special about a color of a dog's nose.

The only true "red nosed pit bull" is Old Family Red Nose (OFRN). OFRN dogs are red with red noses. Some dogmen do not appreciate the OFRN strain, one famous dogman said that he would cull any red dog that came onto his yard as he didn't see the use for them. I personally love the OFRN strain. OFRN APBTs make excellent working dogs and there's very few breeders out there that are still breeding this strain.

The "blue nosed pit bull" does not exist. In fact, there is no such thing as a blue nosed anything. Blue nose is not a bloodline, and there's definitely nothing special about a blue nosed dog. My personal opinion is that blue nosed dogs are curs. Blue nosed often refers to the American Bully, and sometimes the Am. Staff, NOT the American Pit Bull Terrier. The blue color is extremely common in American Bullies. There is no such thing as a blue nosed pit bull, and in my opinion, APBTs aren't blue/do not come in blue. 

Let's take a look at some examples of what people think are "red nosed pit bulls":

(these are just examples of dog's that I have "seen" that look like these dogs that the people considered to be "red nosed pit bulls" and what some people consider them to look like)




Black/white dog with black nose



Black and white dog with black nose



Brindle and white dog with black nose




White dog with pinkish nose 



Red and white dog with pinkish nose













Here are some prime examples of Old Family Red Nose Dogs: 


















































Notice that all of the OFRN dogs above are red with red noses. Does this mean that every red dog with a red nose is OFRN bred or even an American Pit Bull Terrier? Absolutely NOT! Just because your dog is red and has a red nose can even mean that it is a mutt. If you don't have a pedigree or know the pedigree on your "red nose" dog, then your dog is a mutt. And, since OFRN dogs are not "common" and the good ones are with select few good breeders/owners, it is very rare that these show up in the general public. OFRN bred dogs are not dogs that are or should be owned by the general public.


Let's take a look at some "blue nosed" bullies (very common and NOT pit bulls):





















































Now, let's take a look at some blue American Stafforshire Terriers (Am.Staff for short):

























The above blue dogs are American Bullies and American Staffordshire Terriers, not American Pit Bull Terriers and should not be referred to as "pit bulls". They should be referred to as American Bullies or American Staffordshire Terriers because that's what they are. So, stop calling your dog a "blue nose" or "red nose" and stop calling your bully or Am. Staff a "pit bull".


Here's an image I've always appreciated:




Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Pit Bull Friendly Apartments and Condos

HEADS UP: This list has NOT been completed with all 50 states. The reasoning to this is because this has taken me months to gather and I haven't had the time lately to finish this. When I find the time, which will be next year sometime, I will complete this list.


NOTE: I have decided to gather a list of pit bull friendly apartments and condos across the United States of America. I do not guarantee or promise that all of these apartments and condos are in fact pit bull friendly. When I was searching for pit bull friendly apartments and condos to list in this blog, the following apartments and condos listed below stated that they did not have any breed restrictions. It is very hard to find pit bull friendly or all breed friendly apartments and condos. I wanted to help some people out by hopefully helping you find a pit bull friendly apartment, condo or townhouse.

If you call any of the following places and they state that they do not allow pit bulls (ask for it in writing - ask for their breed restrictions in writing), please let me know immediately so that I can remove them from this list.

Here are some tips:

* If your dog is an American Bully, it's in no way, shape or form an American Pit Bull Terrier or "pit bull". An apartment or condo complex can in no way, shape or form restrict a breed of dog that is not on its list. I have never in my life seen an apartment or condo complex that lists the American Bully as a restricted breed of dog. Why? Because they think that the American Bully is a pit bull. If you prove to them that your American Bully is not a pit bull, they cannot restrict your breed of dog.


List of apartments, condos and townhouses that appear to be pit bull friendly:

Alabama:

The Abbey at Wisteria Crest (Hoover, Alabama)
(205) 413-4869

Autumn Village (Hoover, Alabama)
(205) 386-0239

Turtle Place Apartments (Montgomery, Alabama)
(334) 272-5404

Central Park Apartments (Montgomery, Alabama)
(334) 271-4663

The Pavilion Apartments (Montgomery, Alabama)
(334) 284-4795

Eagles West Apartments (Auburn, Alabama)
(334) 245 7937

Fieldcrest Apartments (Dothan, Alabama)
(334) 792-9700

The Woodlands Apartments (Florence, Alabama)
(256) 766-2165

Ivy Green at the Shoals (Florence, Alabama)
(256) 766-2165

Emerald Ridge Apartments (Huntsville, Alabama)
(256) 890-8880

Woodway Pines Apartments (Huntsville, Alabama)
(256) 536-3014

Main Street Apartments (Huntsville, Alabama)
(256) 895-9665

Madison Gardens (Huntsville, Alabama)
(256) 837-1974

Executive Lodge Apartments (Huntsville, Alabama)
(256) 830-8600

The Meadows of Bailey Cove (Huntsville, Alabama)
(256) 881-0775

Mountain Woods Apartments (Birmingham, Alabama)
(205) 942-6428

Panorama East Apartments (Birmingham, Alabama)
(866) 364-1083

Inverness Cliffs (Birmingham, Alabama)
(205) 991-0631

Autumn Wood Apartments (Birmingham, Alabama)
(205) 985-7400

The Highlands Apartments (Birmingham, Alabama)
(205) 581-0077

Cahaba Park Apartments (Birmingham, Alabama)
(866) 291-8725

Wildforest Apartments (Birmingham, Alabama)
(205) 871-0510


Arizona: 

Green Tree Place Apartments (Chandler, Arizona)
(480) 409-0389

Summit Lake Apartments (Chandler, Arizona)
(480) 831-8000

Chuparosas Apartments (Chandler, Arizona)
(480) 292-7190

Cornerstone Ranch Apartments (Chandler, Arizona)
(480) 812-3000

Rock Ridge Apartments (Tucson, Arizona)
(520) 742-2246

Pinnacle Heights Apartments (Tucson, Arizona)
(520) 749-7300

The Greens at Ventana Canyons (Tucson, Arizona)
(520) 577-9828

Huntington Apartments (Tucson, Arizona)
(520) 885-8511

Aerie on Tanque Verde (Tucson, Arizona)
(888) 352-4289

St. Philips Corner Apartments (Tucson, Arizona)
(520) 795-8387

Oakwood Terrace Apartments (Tucson, Arizona)
(520) 622-2212

Aspen Leaf Apartments (Flagstaff, Arizona)
(888) 691-7235

Clear Creek Village (Flagstaff, Arizona)
(866) 471-4569

San Marina Apartments (Phoenix, Arizona)
(623) 848-1555

Zazu Pannee Park Apartments (Phoenix, Arizona)
(877) 475-7116

Rancho Sierra Apartments (Phoenix, Arizona)
(602) 482-2729

Deer Valley Apartments (Phoenix, Arizona)
(623) 492-0500

San Giovanni Apartments (Phoenix, Arizona)
(623) 866-0400

Allegro Apartments (Phoenix, Arizona)
(480) 705-4161

The Oaks Apartments (Mesa, Arizona)
(480) 621-6340

Sonoma Village Apartments (Mesa, Arizona)
(480) 833-2959

454 West Apartments (Mesa, Arizona)
(480) 699-8034

Indigo Springs Apartments  (Mesa, Arizona)
(480) 409-0450

Verona Park Apartments (Mesa, Arizona)
(480) 831-6253

Oasis Apartments (Sierra Vista, Arizona)
(520) 458-8321

Port Royale Apartments (Sierra Vista, Arizona)
(520) 458-8600

Las Brisas Apartments (Sierra Vista, Arizona)
(520) 459-2977

Arkansas: 

Sturbridge Square Apartments (Little Rock, Arkansas)
(501) 225-2310

Forest Place Apartments (Little Rock, Arkansas)
(501) 664-6172

Vantage Point Apartments (Little Rock, Arkansas)
(501) 664-5700

Warren House Apartments (Little Rock, Arkansas)
(501) 227-7316

Camelot Townhouses and Apartments (Pine Bluff, Arkansas)
(870) 536-5800

The Ridge at Meadowlake (Conway, Arkansas)
(501) 513-2200

The Pointe at Conway (Conway, Arkansas)
(501) 513-8310

Alaska: 

Greenbrier Apartments (Anchorage, Alaska)
(907) 333-9624

Timber Ridge Apartments (Eagle River, Alaska)
(907) 726-1496

California: 

Acacia on Santa Rosa Creek (Santa Rosa, California)
(707) 537-7501

Del Nido Apartments (Santa Rosa, California)
(707) 542-2883

Sutter Terrace Senior Apartments (Roseville, California)
(916) 945-9512

Olympus Park Apartments ( Roseville, California)
(916) 781-6877

Action Properties (Roseville, California)
(916) 786-0649

Blue Rock Property Management (Roseville, California)
(916) 781-7000

Windscape Apartments (Roseville, California)
(916) 782-9696

Valley West Apartments (San Jose, California)
(408) 287-7325

Waterstone Apartment Homes (San Jose, California)
(408) 684-3784

The Park Kiely Apartments (San Jose, California)
(877) 790-5225

Amberwood Apartments (San Jose, California) - Services Animal Only
(866) 587-1041

Fairway Glen Apartments (San Jose, California)
(408) 926-3100

Hidden Willows Apartments (San Jose, California)
(408) 294-5333

Mosaic Apartments (San Jose, California)
(408) 212-0800

Village of Taco Apartments (San Jose, California) - Service Animals Only
(408) 866-7117

Westwood Properties (San Jose, California) - Services Animals Only
(408) 292-5174

Palm Valley Apartments (San Jose, California)
(408) 365-0871

Crescent Village Apartments (San Jose, California)
(408) 953-7400

Oak Terrace Apartments (Sacramento, California)
(916) 923-2224

Shore Park Apartments (Sacramento, California)
(916) 399-9167

The Villas at Fair Oaks (Sacramento, California)
(855) 431-4976

Crossing at Riverlake (Sacramento, California)
(916) 399-1022

Windward Village Apartments (Sacramento, California)
(916) 381-0371

Saratoga Downs At Sheveland Ranch Apartments (Napa, California)
(707) 255-3239

Riverwood Apartments (Napa, California)
(707) 252-1855

Lakeshore Apartments (Concord, California)
(925) 680-5250

Pine Terrace Apartments (Concord, California)
(925) 827-1700

Allegro at Jack London Square Apartments (Oakland, California)
(866) 615-9542

Woodcreek Apartments (Fremont, California) - Services Animals Only
(888) 325-7404

The Californian Fountain Apartments (Santa Ana, California)
(714) 546-6114

Reflection Apartment Homes (Fresno, California)
(559) 276-8883

Nees Park Villas (Fresno, California)
(559) 324-1824

Saint Doris Apartments (Fresno, California)
(559) 456-1095

Chateau La Salle (Fresno, California)
(559) 708-4645

Canyon Del Sol Apartments (Fresno, California)
(559) 892-0468

Pine Tree Village Apartments (Fresno, California)
(559) 298-3011

Villa Lucia Apartments (Fresno, California)
(559) 435-6503

Le Provence (Fresno, California)
(888) 317-2982

Castle Park Apartments (San Bernardino, California)
(909) 880-1828

Parkwood Apartments (Lancaster, California)
(661) 942-0730

Park Circle Apartments (Lancaster, California)
(661) 949-8812

Cordova Park Apartments (Lancaster, California)
(661) 945-8052

Hillcrest Park (Newbury Park, California)

Sunset Barrington Gardens (Los Angeles, California)
(310) 472-2750

Casa De Marina (Los Angeles, California)
(301) 822-8700

Hollywood Pointe Apartments (Los Angeles, California) - Service Animals Only
(877) 752-7268

Crenshaw Townhouse (Los Angeles, California) - Service Animals Only
(323) 936-1812

St. Germaine Apartments (Los Angeles, California)
(213) 382-3244

Tivoli Apartments (Los Angeles, California)
(323) 465-7402

HAAS Building (Los Angeles, California)
(213) 891-1063

GLO Apartments (Los Angeles, California)
(213) 290-1900

Santee Court Lofts (Los Angeles, California)
(213) 623-8101

Sunset Vine Tower (Los Angeles, California)
(323) 836-0123

Gardens at the Wilshire Center (Los Angeles, California)
(213) 785-7951

Chateau De Paix (Los Angeles, California)
(310) 837-4406

Hughes Towers Apartments (Los Angeles, California)
(310) 836-0308

Pacific View Apartment Homes (Long Beach, California)
(562) 498-3009

Bixby Knolls Apartments (Long Beach, California)
(562) 595-5033

Park Avenue and Beverly Plaza (Long Beach, California)
(562) 498-4032

Beach Villas Apartments (Long Beach, California)
(562) 435-2226

San Pasqual Apartments (Pasadena, California)
(626) 792-1935

Parc Chateaux (Stevenson Ranch, California)
(661) 254-6400

Carmel Vue Apartments (San Pedro, California)
(310) 833-6714

Canyon Park Apartments (Riverside, California)
(951) 352-3585

Irvine Apartments (Irvine, California)
(866) 963-3203

Pacific Gardens Apartments (San Diego, California)
(8585) 453-4620

Stonewood Gardens Apartments (San Diego, California)
(619) 223-4766

Albert's College Apartment Homes (San Diego, California)
(619) 583-7402

Bay Pointe (San Diego, California)
(858) 273-5525

Cedar Shores Apartments (San Diego, California) - Service Animals Only
(858) 274-9680

Allegro Towers (San Diego, California)
(619) 595-7801

Club River Run (San Diego, California)
(619) 280-7272

1188 Mission Apartments (Sacramento, California)
(415) 864-3333

The Gateway Apartments (Sacramento, California) - Service Animals Only
(415) 434-2000

Grosvenor Atrium (Sacramento, California)
(415) 775-2303

Connecticut:

Hartford 21 Apartments (Hartford, Connecticut)
(800) 598-7829

The Pavilions Apartment Homes (Manchester, Connecticut)
(860) 648-0379

The Terraces Apartments (Norwich, Connecticut)
(860) 889-9999

The Liberty Building (New Haven, Connecticut)
(203) 772-2865

Colorado:

The Arbors at Sweetgrass (Fort Collins, Colorado)
(866) 643-0919

Brookview Apartments (Fort Collins, Colorado)
(970) 493-4250

Woodlands Apartments (Fort Collins, Colorado)
(970) 207-1190

The Buttes Apartments (Loveland, Colorado)
(970) 622-0345

Wyndham Apartment Homes (Longmont, Colorado)
(303) 772-0647

The Crestwood Resort Apartments (Northglenn, Colorado)
(303) 920-9630

Sierra Vista Apartments (Thorton, Colorado)
(303) 287-0951

Peakview at T-Bone Ranch (Greeley, Colorado)
(970) 330-1475

Gateway Place Apartments (Greeley, Colorado)
(970) 330-5704

Meeker Commons (Greeley, Colorado)
(970) 378-9393

Timber Ridge Apartments (Boulder, Colorado)
(303) 413-1227

The Lofts at Peloton Apartments (Boulder, Colorado)
(303) 457-5230

Mountain Terrace Apartment Homes (Westminister, Colorado)
(303) 426-5494

Arbour Square (Westminister, Colorado)
(303) 451-1200

The Orchards at Cherry Creek Park (Centennial, Colorado)
(303) 680-2800

Villas at Holly (Centennial, Colorado)
(303) 779-8183

Copper Chase Apartments (Colorado Springs, Colorado)
(719) 632-7762

Skyway Village Apartments (Colorado Springs, Colorado)
(877) 627-1315

Sagebrook Apartment Homes (Colorado Springs, Colorado)
(719) 495-8900

Tanemara Apartments (Littleton, Colorado)
(303) 948-0800

Delaware

Canby Park Apartments (Wilmington, Delaware)
(302) 504-8081

Studio Green Apartments (Newark, Delaware)
(302) 368-7000

Village 2 (Newark, Delaware)
(302) 738-5530

School Bell Apartments (Bear, Delaware)
(302) 328-9500

Christiana Meadows Apartments (Dover, Delaware)
(302) 322-6161

Village of Westover Apartments (Dover, Delaware)
(302) 734-3451

Harbor House Apartments (Claymont, Delaware)
(302) 798-9100

Greenville Place Apartments (Greenville, Delaware)
(302) 658-7024

Castlebrook Apartments (New Castle, Delaware)
(302) 322-7700

Florida

Tamarac Pointe (Fort Lauderdale, Florida)
(954) 721-5800

Boca Bend Marina Apartments (Boca Raton, Florida)
(561) 391-5000

Palms of Boca Del Mar (Boca Raton, Florida)
(561) 392-1244

Palmetto Apartments (Boca Raton, Florida)
(561) 955-7092

Tradition at Palm Aire (Sarasota, Florida)
(941) 359-2202

Stringer Management (Sarasota, Florida)
(941) 922-4959

Avesta Treesdale (Bradenton, Florida)
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Saturday, December 14, 2013

Man Eaters - Gary Hammonds

Through the years, the man biters have been of special interest to me since, in theory, most are not supposed to be game. Simple observation tells me there are as many game man biters (percentage wise) as there are game dogs in the American Pit Bull Terrier family. Most of the old-timers felt the man biters should be destroyed and most definitely never used them in a breeding program. I believe a deeper look into these dogs may be a worthwhile project. Through my research and observation, I have concluded that there are several types of man biters, each of which deserves recognition and comment. The most acceptable of the man biters are those that are both protective and territorial. Most bulldogs have this trait to varying degrees and the beauty of it is that it can be encouraged or discouraged depending on the needs of the owner. These dogs are usually the more intelligent bulldogs and while they are generally gentle with people, will become a terror to the suspicious intruder and literally inhale a direct threat to its master or his property. 

The second most acceptable man biter is the territorial junk yard dog.This dog gladly accepts its owners but all others are not welcome in its domain. Off his own property, he is not nearly as aggressive except when challenged directly. These dogs are not for the novice, but can be kept and are definitely a deterrent to dog thieves and various riffraff. 

The last acceptable type is the junk yard dog that will bite anyone anytime, just for the fun of it. Many of these dogs actually have to have their feed chucked to them even by their owners. These dogs are for the professional only, and most are probably good candidates for execution. There is also the excitable dog that will bite you to get loose and get another dog, cat, horse or whatever. These dogs are definitely not for the amateur and should be kept from these types of situations as much as possible. Bullyson, Andersons CH Spade and Mesquite Sam were dogs of this type. 

To me, the most dangerous is the latent man biter that just goes bad without provocation. These dogs should always be destroyed as their unpredictability makes them an extremely lethal commodity. This recessive tendency surfaces in other breeds so why should the American Pit Bull Terrier be any different? The percentage of malicious man biters in the American Pit Bull Terrier family is extremely low. I believe that through the use of proper breeding methods, we can even lower this. Most of the attacks that are given so much news media coverage are generally made by dogs of no breeding. 

Check the records, in most cases where a bulldog mauls or kills someone, they are dogs that were bred by the amateur breeder and usually backed by several generations of scatter-bred individuals, most of which are equally bred badly. So, in many cases the breeder is at fault and in all but a few instances, human error enters into the mishap. There is much to be said about the man biters, but for the sake of good judgement, everyone who owns one, just like all American Pit Bull Terrier owners, should be very conscientious. Just one case of carelessness could mean a law against the breed in your area and turn away public support from our dogs. That is exactly what we do not need at this point in time. Man biters - keep one if you must, but take care if you do.

Friday, December 13, 2013

Feed an Athletic Canine Like You Feed a Human Athlete - Bob Stevens

Energy. The operative word is energy. For endurance, you need energy. For muscle growth you need energy because muscle grows fastest and strongest when you train a muscle with intensity. And the operative word for energy is ATP. No, that isn't something Native Americans lived in. It is adenosine triphosphate which is a vital molecule found in the body that provides the energy for endurance and muscle growth, for strength and performance. ATP is in the forefront today in human athletic performance nutritional supplementation. ATP is a nucleic acid that contains three (hence the term tri phosphate) phosphates that when activated releases a blast of energy that fuels muscle contraction and many other body functions. When ATP binds with certain receptors, it causes the release of nitric oxide (NO) in the blood. NO lines the blood vessels and when released, it causes a very potent dilation of the blood vessels and that means increase blood flow. If the blood is highly nutrient rich (a variety of healthy proteins), muscle grows healthier and, stronger. The increased blood flow also means less oxygen is required, so aerobic activity (endurance) is enhanced and recovery from over-stressed muscles is expedited. You want ATP in the muscle for muscle contraction. When the third phosphate detaches, it releases a tremendous burst of energy. But unless extra is supplied, the burst of energy is short lived, which is the normal situation. The more ATP in the muscle cells, the more reps a weight trainer can perform and the more hill repeats with heavier loads and the longer a dog can run a mill or stay with his own weight and more catching hog. For decades, then, the athletic performance industry has engineered ways to drop excess ATP into the muscle. One hindrance to that concept is that taking oral ATP, initially, was found to be unproductive on any significant scale because the ATP becomes absorbed before it comes to the muscle. A number of chemical stimulants have been discovered, however, that activates the body to generate ATP itself and push it into the muscle. A number of processes accomplish this. One is the krebs cycle, which is an oxygen fueled process that burns glucose (sugar), fat, and amino acids to create ATP. This energy results in prolonging muscle and cardio endurance. A number of supplements have been proven through quality research and extensively used in the bodybuilding sport (and you find them splashed all over pages in the muscle magazines) and heavy contact sports like football or any sport that requires the athlete to pump iron extensively use them. Importantly, mixed martial artists like the UFC fighters use this stuff training for battle. I use it myself so I attest, it works. There are three that are particularly popular.
1). Creatine. Probably the most famous, today, is the creatine phosphororylation process. I have already mentioned, it was Bob Fritz that was responsible for the popularity of creatine in the sports nutrition world. He was the first person to introduce it to the athletic world in the mid 1980s. I, then, was one of the first to use this supplement. Part of the discovery of creatine came from studying the diet of wolves. The diet of wolves (wild dogs in effect) was of interest because of their athletic performance. Athletic because it was observed that a wild wolf can range as much as 45 miles in a full day, and some a hundred miles. Wolves have been clocked at 24 to 28 mph for up to a mile. In Montana, a wolf being chased by a game warden, was clocked at 35 to 40 mph for four miles across a frozen lake. And power, wolves do not enter weight pulling contests, but as few as two wolves can take down an 800 pound moose and drag it about a hundred yards. I can (and will later) write a whole article about the diet of wolves, but one important ingredient they consume is creatine. Creatine comes from meat. But the kicker is man, in all our infinite wisdom trying to be smarter than God, we have come up with bigger fatter cows, but unhealthy nutrient deficient cow meat. It has been discovered that wild meat (deer) contains as much as TEN TIMES the amount of creatine as domesticated cows, chickens, etc. Parenthetically, Don Mayfield used to get large pots of deer meat from hunters, I am told, to feed I guess about a hundred dogs. He didn't know, I don't think, how right on he was. Today, you cannot pick up a muscle building magazine that does not have articles about creatine and chock full of companies marketing creatine products. Today, creatine is one of the most extensively studied performance enhancing substances, and touted to be the most effective supplement for shooting ATP into the muscle. This creates ENERGY for the muscle to perform longer and harder and that increases strength. Creatine increases the time muscles can exert maximal power. It shoots ATP into the muscle providing anaerobic power. A human can perform more reps lifting weights and a runner can sprint faster, jump higher hurdles, and a baseball player can throw harder.
2). Citrulline Malate. This is the amino acid citrulline attached to malic acid, a molecule involved in the krebs (citric) cycle. The malic acid burns lactic acid prolonging the athletes performance. The citrulline removes ammonia from the body. Lactic acid is a compound that build when amino acids are metabolized during intense exercise and it is toxic to the muscle resulting in muscle fatigue until it is flushed out. Citrulline promotes energy production and simultaneously flushes out fatigue-causing metabolic waste. Removing the ammonia delays fatigue. Citrulline is converted to arginine in the body and arginine produces the nitric oxide (NO) mentioned above. As stated, NO enhances blood flow and greater blood flow means greater oxygen delivery to the muscle and indirectly this enhances ATP production in the muscle, resulting in greater energy for anaerobic POWER. Citrulline has been proven in the medical community for use reducing muscle fatigue in the elderly. Citrulline is made from argenine and ornithine. It has been proven in both human and animal studies. From Wikipedia I learned that citrulline comes from the word citrullus, a Latin word for watermelon. It is made, in part, from watermelon. Puritan’s Pride (I get some of my supplements from – Google them) has a citrulline plus watermelon supplement.
3). Pyruvate. Pyruvate is an organic acid, a natural by-product of glucose metabolism. When you supplement with extra pyruvate, the aforementioned krebs cycle picks it up and provides the muscle with extra ATP, burning more fat and glucose. It greatly enhances burning fat, increased endurance and ATP activity/energy production. You can find numerous sports performance studies that confirm this. One gram per ten pounds body weight is suggested. Too much on one serving with humans can give gastric irritation, dogs handle it better though. Best is to spread it out in several small feedings. Google Bodytech Pyruvate and Pinnacle Pyruvate or Genis Nutrition for some good sources.
4). Ribose. Ribose is a sugar that is part of the high-energy phosphate that forms part of the ATP molecule. Providing extra ribose also enhances muscle endurance. Doesn't directly make you stronger, but it allows extra reps pumping iron, extra reps for a dog pulling a load, longer time on a spring pole etc. In that respect it makes the body tougher and stronger. D-ribose supplements also enhances recovery of ATP levels following intense training. It kind of works like a steroid in this respect.
5). ATP. As mentioned above, it was initially discovered that supplementing with pure ATP had little effect on muscle because it gets absorbed before it gets into the muscle. However, it has since been discovered and is now all over all the training magazines, that ENTERICALLY coated ATP gets shuffled directly into the intestines where it can be effectively absorbed. Coopers Institute in Dallas did a classic and now famous study that got published in the Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise periodical. They used what is now called Peak ATP (Google it). They found that it significantly enhances muscle ATP. They also found that when stacked with creatine the effect on the muscle is greatly enhanced. The International Journal of Sports Nutrition (June 1999) (and a laundry list of other published quality studies) reported significant anaerobic performance and body composition and endurance with these stacked supplements.

Stacked is performance supplementation parlance for synergistically (the sum of the parts taken together can be greater total effect than the sum of the individual effects) combining to enhance effectiveness. This means that when you “stack” creatine, citrulline malate, pyruvate, and ribose, with enterically coated ATP, you get WOW!

Loading is another performance concept. It means that when you begin supplementation you introduce it with three to five times as much for about a week and then you level off to the prescribed amount. Most of the supplement containers instruct this but it is mentioned here to explain why. At introduction, the muscles are like the empty cup. When you load heavy the muscle soaks it up. Then it will absorb only the prescribed amount and any more is a waste and can be too much. But when you “load”, you enhance the effect. “Again only provide these athletic enhancements when your dog is undergoing real heavy training and recovering from. So, about six weeks out from a long hunt in the swamps, for example. After the dog recovers, wean off until the next outing. Personally, I am now too old to compete in the ring, my last full contact kickboxing event was in 2006 in which I won each round unanimous. But now, I just show up at the gym and spar and train, I am too old to compete. However, I still take the supplements. But, I stagger them taking them only when I put myself through some heavy training, discontinue when I slack off, it is not good for me to stay over-training. I train 7 days a week. But when I “slack off”, I do mostly my karate kata, iron palm and iron body, running without sprints enjoying the country, ease up on squats, dead lifts - the emphasis is away from heavy to maintenance. You see.
The next question is, for a dog, how much and how often? I am astonished that for all the years of human sports enhancement study, most of the supplements say take such-and-such grams. To me, it matters whether you are, like myself, 5 7″ and 150 pounds – or 6 3″ and 250 pounds. So, I think (but don’t really know) the thing to do is assume the suggested quantity is for a 180 pound human athlete. So for a 45 pound dog, I’d say grind the supplements in one of those little bowls with a vitamin crusher you can get in health food stores, and go with 1/4 of the human dose. Or, just go ahead and give the human capsules, but only during very serious, hard training. This is expensive and I’m not sure if you don’t get all of this in Bob Fritz’s new product K9 Super Fuel (by Animal Naturals). I don’t know enough on K9 super Fuel to write about it. I’d Google it if interested.
This article is about ATP and I could write a book on human performance enhancement. Briefly, for now, you can “stack” even more by combining Creatine-AKG with Glutamine AKG mixed with the aforementioned Citrulline Malate (AKG is another krebs cycle). This combination is especially productive in shooting creatine and glutamine into the muscle cells without loss. A product called ANAVOL (found at GNC) has these powerful ingredients. You have to peruse the muscle magazines and Google around to find the stuff, it is all over. Caffeine also enhances, synergistically the effectiveness of these supplements. Plain old black, cold coffee does it.
There is another serious way of boosting/bolstering the effectiveness of this supplementation. Massage. I can and will make a whole article on this at a later date. The subject is dealt with extensively in the “Scientific Conditioning” chapter of my Dogs of Velvet and Steel, Revised Edition (2012) book (ATP is also discussed). Massage is an aspect of conditioning the importance of which is little comprehended by today’s handler/conditioners. I suggest, again, that the best way to understand it is to feel it. Put in a very hard, hard as you have ever done training. Then go get a massage from a competent professional masseuse. You become a better trainer when you fully dig by experiencing. A quality, professional massage expedites the flushing out of lactic acid and stimulates the muscle by providing a fresh supply of oxygen rich blood to the areas where it is needed. For many, a lack of comprehending the extent of the benefits means the time doesn’t get justified. Find out. Try it on yourself. There is a reason boxers, gymnasts and all contact sports players, get regular massages. I know. I get them myself. My masseuse is also a registered nurse and physical therapist. She stretches, elongates my muscles and she works on my hip and shoulder and leg hinges stretching and strengthening my range of movement. Gymnasts and ballet athletes train 6 to 8 hours a day. How? It isn’t all aerobic and anaerobic. Many hours are spent stretching and massage. Gives them POWER - explosive power, as well as expediting recovery. Here is a very concise explanation. We all know that we build muscle, recover from hard training and overall get tougher from the hormone testosterone. Training stimulates testosterone production. But there is a flip to that. Navy Seals had blood tests at the end of BUDS training in a study. They had extremely low testosterone, high estrogen levels. Another test revealed the same with Marines at the end of boot camp. Of course, rest rebuilds the body’s ability to produce testo. But, very recent research indicates that anabolic condition is a function of the body’s testo/cortisol ratio. Researchers at Thomas Jefferson Medical College in Philly found that engaging in Yoga after heavy training VERY SIGNIFICANTLY lowers cortisol blood levels and therefore raises blood testo (cited in Muscle & Fitness November 2009). Also cited in M&F is a study presented at the 2003 Annual Meeting of the Endocrine Society reported very significant reduction in cortisol levels following a Yoga session. That is just one of several studies going back decades. That is just one of my many tricks of the trade. I generally follow my serious hard training with some relaxing stretching and Yoga. It works, folks. Again, many pages are devoted to this in the Dogs of Velvet and Steel book. Massage, to me, is a form of canine yoga. Want an extra boost to that? Music. Research also shows the same effect on the body’s hormones from music. And, the most productive music is classical like they play at symphonies and (to make a longer story short), the most productive of all is Mozart. I often do this play Mozart while engage yoga. What about dogs do I hear? Well, the initial research was done on dogs! Found it works VERY EFFECTIVELY. So, they tried it on human athletes and found it works with humans as well.
I have to inject another tip. I used to work some dogs with a dog man who taught me this. You need a long, long trail through woods and fields for best. After very hard mill and spring pole work, you feed your dog nutrient rich food/supplements (nutrient dense, small amount) well watered. Then your partner walks ahead of you with the dog he is working. You stay back about 5 yards or however long it takes for your dog to be constantly straining to get up front but not too close. At the end of several miles, you turn around and walk back, you are in front, your partner’s dog is straining. This is called blood volume training (BVT) (the term is cited in Muscle Mag INTL.,but the concept has been mine for decades and I have used similar on myself decades, i.e. push my truck, drag a truck tire, barefoot but that’s another story, slow weighted push-ups, etc. - same concept). You get peak contraction while the dog strains. This floods the muscles with nutrient rich blood (hence the term BVT) and you have hyper-hydrated or pumped the dog’s muscularity. When you have finished you spend a good long time with quality massage. The strained walking is intense antagonistic contraction. The massage is a blended protraction. For the experienced catch dogs, massages, done properly, smoothes and dissipates scar tissue and scar tissue tightens and stiffens athletic ability. I KNOW massage smoothes out the scar tissue. I have decades of scar tissue that was tight and was smoothed out to renew fast explosive muscle in myself.
The salient aspect of it here is that massage also works those supplements into the body. There are a kitchen sink full of sports supplements, branched chained amino acids (bcaa) a lot, but this article is about CONCEPTS, not specifics and the focus here is on energy boosting. It is worth mention, the bcaa leucine boosts glucose, other amino acid muscle repair and push creatine into muscle cells. Massage flushes in and out fresh oxygen and nutrient rich blood in and out of the muscles. Nutrient-rich is the key here. You enhance the effect with the supplements mentioned – along with quality muscle repairing and building proteins that you must supply in addition to the ATP krebs cycle mentioned in this article. In other words, the effectiveness of the time you put into giving your dog’s massage is correlated directly with the quality of the blood ingredients.
Yes, these supplements work. I consume them myself. I am not a dog fighter. I am a human fighter. Am I muscular? Yes, I am. Lean and muscular? Yes. Do I have large freaky muscles like a body builder? No. Tight muscle? No. I pump iron, but I also stretch a lot, every day (arms and shoulders, back, not just legs). Do I have muscular endurance? Yes. For many rounds of mixed martial arts sparring? Depends, of course, on the fighter! But in general, yes, even an opponent who outweighs me fifty pounds. Not bragging, just making a point. I am not a dog fighter and I know there is more to putting a pit dog on weight, pit ready than just physical training. But there is much the modern human athlete does that works for the canine athlete, be it the hunting dog or the Schutzhund dog or the Iditarod sled dog. In other words, it is not just something I read about in a book, I’m saying again, this stuff works. It works because it allows the athlete, human or canine, to work longer and harder. So, don’t feed it unless you work the dog longer and harder. This is not for a half hour walk or a half hour on a treadmill. This is for severe, draining, gut busting work. Serious training only. Otherwise, these supplements can be toxic and a waste. These supplements are behind a significant aspect of athletic performance. Want a super canine athlete? Feed the dog like a human super athlete. None of this can make a dog game, but it will build a very tough dog.

- Bob Stevens

Thursday, December 12, 2013

History of Boudreaux Dogs

Floyd Boudreaux' new dog, Blind Billy wasn't always blind. He would lose his sight when he got hot. In his second match, he lost his sight when he became overheated. OJ Thibodeaux & his black & white dog were highly regarded at 39lbs. Floyd believed if Billy could get his mouth on him, it wouldn't take long to determine a winner. Billy could bite as hard as any dog Floyd has ever seen and even harder than most of the best. He could disable one in short order. Just as Floyd figured, Blind Billy was able to get to Thibodeaux' dog several times. The longer they fought, the more he punished the black & white dog. Blind Billy had the black & white dog quitting. Floyd handled when Blind Billy was released and on Blind Billy's scratch. He was counted out searching for his opponent.

Although it was clear the black and white dog wanted no more, Billy lost the contest. Perhaps he could have won several more matches afterwards, who knows, but thanks to the gifted foresight of Floyd Boudreaux, he bred Blind Billy instead. Floyd bred Billy to a good daughter, Gypsy, to produce Red (a full sister to Elias's "Pistol"). Floyd bred Blind Billy to Red to produce Lena and bred Blind Billy to Lena to produce Scrub, who was 15/16ths inbred on the old Blind Billy dog.

Let's back up a minute. SP Clavelle owned a spotted dog back in then named Gaboon Trahan. He used to breed to his bitches. Gaboon used the one time & found him to be an average dog, but very game. Gaboon called the dog 'Rascal' & hadpermission to breed to him any time, but Gaboon never owned the red & white dog he called Rascal. Floyd bought Rascalfrom SP Clavelle & Floyd Boudreaux was the only man to ever register Rascal & only did so through the UKC several yearsafter Floyd had him on his yard Floyd bred Rascal to Lena (Scrub's mama) to produce Rascal Jr. Rascal Jr. was the sireof many good dogs one of which Jerome Hernandez called 'Nigger.' Nigger won 5 times for Jerome & one of them over Scrub.Scrub was matched his first match at 40lbs. by Floyd Boudreaux & lost this one to Nigger in 40 minutes.


Don Mayfield liked Scrub & used him to go into JT Kitches & his son of Tudor's "Ch." Spike." Scrub won this contest in1 hour & 8 minutes. Floyd Boudreaux again had gifted foresight & bred Scrub to some good bitches & I'm glad he did.Scrub sired some great dogs & phenomenal producers! Scrub was bred to his half sister Candy to produce the famous Elidog. Floyd also bred Scrub to a good daughter of Rascal Jr. to produce the great Boze dog! Boze was the most inbredDibo dog of his time & was a great representative of his genetic pool! No Dibo dog could stay with Boze!

One day a few of some great dogmen were at Floyd's after a convention held in Layfayette, Lousiana held by GaboonTrahan. Among the gatherin were Bob Wallace, Leo Kinard, Maurice Carver, Roland Boutte & JD Elliott. Floyd got outBoze & Boze Jr. (a brother to Bullyson & Eli Jr.'s mother) & rolled them together for just a short roll. Leo saidthis roll was better than all the matches he had just seen! JD said that it was blur! Both of these dogs made a messof each other in short order. Just the look on Maurice's face! Maurice was speechless as, his jaw dropped, his mouth'fell open & his eyes bulged out. Later, Maurice said he had never seen a sight like that in all his life!


Floyd Boudreaux became known as the breeder of Eli dogs & this is true, but we need to look at the whole picture.Folks, Floyd Boudreaux is the breeder of Blind Billy dogs! The best of the Dibo stuff!! Bullyson was a line bredBlind Billy dog!

Floyd Boudreaux owned Blind Billy & Rascal at the same time. Gypsy was a good daughter of Billy & when she came intoheat, Floyd bred her as a repeat breeding back to her sire Blind Billy. Floyd also bred her a week later but this timeto Rascal, as Billy was getting old & Floyd wanted pups out of the aging Gypsy. Well, Gypsy had the pups & Ray Charlescould see that they were from Billy. Raymond Elias got one of the pups from this mating & named him Pistol.

Pistol was a very good dog that was shown only once. He was matched above his weight & won impressively anyway. I dontknow how Maurice was able to breed him, or if he even did at all, but the ADBA pedigrees have him as the grandsire ofArt's "Missy," Davis' "Gr. Ch" Boomerang" & Clayton's "Java" (the dam of Gr.Ch. Art). By the way, Don Devine got abitch from Bennett Clayton named "Patty." Don registered her as off Eli Jr. & Java. When Don got the bitch, all Bennetttold him was that she was a sister to Art, but Bennett did not say she was a littermate. Patty was indeed of Eli Jr.,but her dam was a quarter Staffordshire; a bitch off Indian Bolio & a half Staff bitch! But I would not mind if mydogs had Patty in their make-up because Patty's dam was a bitch name Ginger. This is the same Ginger was the dam toStinson's "Ch." Tuffy" & Stinsori & Glover's "Ch." Dolemite." Imagine that. Dolemite's mama a quarter Staff! It musthave been some good Staff blood!

So, Patty was a half sister to Ironhead. Maurice also said Bullyson was a son of Ironhead & he did that with the manwho raised Bullyson sitting in the same room with him. Just ask Jerry Clemmons if I am telling the facts. Anyways folksno matter what Maurice's papaers say, Ironhead was a son of Blind Billy. Perhaps now you will understand why Bullysoncrossed wo well with Ray Long's two bitches Baby & Tuffy & Art Riley's Missy, why Eli Jr. crossed well with BennettClayton's Java & why Ronnie Hyde's Satchmo Bully went so well with his Bloody Sunday.

Folks, it's the Blind Billy blood doing what it's done, biting hard & winning. While the world is searching for Eli dogs,the few who really understand are searching for Boze dogs. It took a daughter of Boze to create Bullyson. When Bozewas 11 years old & weighed 18 lbs. less than his grandson Bullyson, Floyd held Boze's back legs & let Bullyson get agood hold on him. Floyd let go & Boze got up & downed Bullyson & kept him down for 10 minutes, doing what he wanted withhim. When you realize how good Bullyson was, then consider how great Boze was! Eli & Eli Jr. were good dogs too, butnone of them were in the same class as Boze.

Floyd Boudreaux bred Boze to Penny, who was out of Young Rock, out of Peggy. Penny was a good bitch out of an all-goodlitter. Boze & Penny produced Spook (Sissy). Spook's whole litter killed each other except for her & another littlebitch pup Floyd gave to Maurice Coin, another friend of Floyd's. Spook was given to Jerry Clemmons, a chicken man &when she came into heat, he brought her back to Floyd's to breed her to Eli & she had 4 good pups. All 4 pups weregood dogs. Another all good litter bred by Floyd Boudreaux! Bullyson, Eli Jr. Brendy & Lady, a litter of dogs thatchanged the game itself! The litter changed the future of how we were to breed our dogs. Gameness alone wasn't goodenough anymore. Eli dogs would & could kill them. This was the beginning of what was to be know as the Eli line of dogs.

Jerry sold Spook to Doug Nightrider. Doug was like a kid with a new toy. Doug rolled Spook for the better part of aweek until she finally stopped, but she was a good one. She was a Boze daughter. Boze was bred to Brendy to produceWilkenson's "Tina." Tina was bred to Bullyson to produce Ch. Bullyson Jr. & the only dog capable of dethroning hisgreat sire, Benny Bob. Boze bred bitches produce very well. Boze was a great dog. He was very fast & bit very hard.To top it off, he was very strong. Boze won only one contract match in just under 5 minutes. All totaled, Bozestopped 27 dogs.

All the old timers used to come up with truckloads to try to stop the Boze dog, but Boze would sen them all homedisappointed, one after the other. Hell, Roland Fontenot used to come every weekend & try, but never could carryenough dogs with him to do it. Boze would make short work of them!

Fred Williamson has a son of Boze he called Pistol who was raised as a house pet. Word was that Pistol was a pet& a cur & that Don Mayfield & George had a dog at 49lbs. that would prove it. Well, after enough talk, ol Fredsaid put up or shut up. The match was made. Mayfield had George's blessing to shape up their Ch. Gomer dog, a winnerof several high dollar contests. Ch. Gomer was a littermate to Ch. 400, another multi-time winner. Both dogs camein on the weight & at 2:45 Ch. Gomer cleared the wall & jumped right into the arms of Don's wife, Phyllis Mayfield.Now who was the cur?

A paid advertisement was published in Raymond Holt's magazine 'Pit Dog Report' shorly after the contest. The adstated "Boudreaux' Pistol: Just an average Boudreaux dog!" The ad wasn't to peddle pups or for stud service, it wassimply a statement. And it was true; Pistol was an average of Floyd's dogs.

Ch. Midnight Cowboy was good son of Bullyson. Linus was a Boze bred bitch. Midnight Cowboy & Linus produce Reddick's"Herman," a winner of 5 contract matches. Herman was just one of an all-good litter. Floyd sent Liza to Doyle & hadher bred to Herman. This mating produced another good littter with just one cold bitch. Maverick was off this litter.Maverick produced whole litters of match dogs. Ask anyone who owns Maverick dog!

Eli did his share of producing well. Floyd bred him to a Corvino bitch named Glory B to produce Daniel's "Ch." Tom,"who was the sire of Barefield's "Ch." Saloon." Ch. Saloon was the sire of Allen's "Ch." Butch" ROM. Ch. Saloon wasalso the sire of Allen's "Stripper." Butch & Stripper produced Allen's "Double Gr. Ch." Tornado," a winner of 10 matches.Of course, Eli was the best known for producing Eli Jr. & Bullyson, but only because they were bred more & thereforebecame more popular.

Now, Don Mayfield says Floyd stole Eli from him by saying all Cry Baby's pups died. Friends, Cry Baby's pups all did die.Don & Floyd wer good friend & believe me, Floyd values his friends. I would think that if Cry Baby's pups wer valuableenough to betray a friend, I wouldn't give them away. Floyd gave Eli to JR Bush because Floyd knew he could breed morelike him or better. To Floyd, a dog is just a dog, but a friend is a priceless value! Don Mayfield is just jealous.

Floyd Boudreaux created Eli from Blind Billy blood. Elli was stolen from JR Bush after his 3rd match (a match that wasraided). There is no telling how many good ones Eli produce. Ever wonder why Eli blood crossed so well with Gr. Ch. Zebo blood? Who knows? Boy, these are the facts, not fiction! You can do your homework, and believe me, I have.

How to Beat Parvo Virus by California Jack

DISCLAIMER

I do not claim to be a veterinarian and I certainly do not claim to be able to give medical advice. Nor do I claim that the steps contained herein will guarantee that the pup will live through parvovirus, even if they are followed exactly. All I claim is that I have used these methods on my own dogs to treat this disease, and I have only lost one pup - the first pup I bred who came down with parvo, to which I did not administer these procedures. This information is given solely as an alternative for those people who either cannot afford veterinary care for their pup(s) and/or who do not have access to veterinary facilities. By reading or utilizing this information, the reader agrees to waive any and all rights, claims, causes of actions, or any other allegations of injury, property damage, and/or emotional distress against Vise Grip Kennels and/or its owner, affiliated entities, associates, partners, etc. Further, the reader/user of this information agrees to defend, indemnify, and hold harmless Vise Grip Kennels, and or/any of its owners, affiliated entities, associated, partners, etc., against any and all such rights, claims, causes of action, or any other allegations of injury, property damage, and/or emotional distress against Vise Grip Kennels, etc. The purchaser of this information agree to use this information at his or her own risk to his or her own pup(s) dog(s), with the full and total understanding that parvovirus is a lethal disease which can and will kill some puppies (dogs) irrespective of what kind of treatment the pup (dog) receives, or from whom. By reading, and/or using the material contained herein, the purchaser, reader, or user of this information fully understanding the above and again agrees to utilize this information AT HIS OR HER OWN RISK TO HIS OR HER OWN PET.

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How Do You Tell If It's Parvovirus?
SIGNS TO LOOK FOR:
If your puppy starts looking depressed, or appears listless, you should immediately become concerned, as these are the first signs of parvo (and any number of other similar diseases). It may be nothing and it may go away - or, it may not. The next stage of parvo is your puppy refuses to eat. Puppies will still continue to drink water, so don't be fooled by this. Soon after the puppy refuses to eat, it will begin to vomit - and vomit. After this the diarrhea comes, which is oftentimes bloody. If you let your puppy's symptoms get this far, the chances of saving it are slim. Most people wait and wait, until it is too late to save the pup. You cannot wait for vomiting and diarrhea to occur before you decide to act. If you value the life of your pup, you must act before these stages occur. 
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WHEN TO ACT:
If your puppy refuses to eat at its normal time, and it seems depressed, immediately take it to the vet for a microscopic analysis for the following four (4) conditions: coccidiosis, giardia, coronavirus, and parvovirus. It is better to spend $50 on a false alarm - than to have to bury your pup out of laziness and negligence. It is essential to have your pup checked out for all four of these potential diseases. ALL of these conditions have the same symptoms, but the first two are protozoan infections which can be treated with medication [ask your vet about the kinds of medication for each, and then refer to my "Save Money" information on how to get it cheaper]. The first two infections are not usually as severe as the other two (viral) infections because they can be treated with medication, whereas the viral infections cannot. ALL of these conditions can be further alleviated by the following steps: (Take these steps only if you cannot afford competent veterinary care. By the way, if your vet is more interested in how he or she will get paid, than in saving your pup's life, then I suggest you go to a real vet.) 
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STEPS TO TAKE:
• If you have confirmed that your puppy has one (or more) of these diseases, you must keep the pup indoors at all times - and I would recommend that it be the bathroom or the kitchen, as most likely the floors are tiled or made of linoleum - and, since your puppy will be vomiting and defecating profusely, you want to be able to clean it quickly and completely. Yes, it will be smelly and disgusting, but the smell will go away - death, however, will not - so clarify your values. If your puppy has parvo, and you leave it outside, especially at night when it cools down, I assure you it will die. 
• Once you've found the appropriate spot in the house in which to keep the pup, make sure that the temperature is comfortable: not too cool nor too warm - comfortable. It is then imperative that you obtain the following supplies: 
• At least 4 Bags of Lactated Ringers (IV fluids) plus the catheter set ups and needles. YOU WILL NOT BE RUNNING THESE FLUIDS IN YOUR DOG IV (INTRAVENEOUSLY), BUT SUB-Q [SUBCUTANEOUSLY (UNDER THE SKIN)]. a) Ask your vet to provide you with the ringers. If your vet will not, he is a money-grubber, and I would advise you to go to another vet. In fact, I would clearly establish with your vet whether or not he or she would provide you with such supplies before it ever becomes necessary. Don't wait until there is a life-threatening emergency before you find out that your vet won't help you. When you first get your pup ask your vet straight-up "If my dog ever caught parvo, and I couldn't afford the treatment, would you supply me with fluids?" If your vet says no, find a new vet. If you can get the ringers, try to keep a supply on hand before such an emergency. "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." b) If you are in an emergency situation, or if you can't find a vet who will say "Yes" to the above question, ask yourself if you know anyone in the nursing or medical profession, either as suppliers or as administrators. Try to get the fluids in this way. But you need to get the fluids. 
• The next step is to get 4 Bottles of Pedialyte. You can obtain this at any supermarket or drugstore. Pedialyte is a fluid/electrolyte replacement drink for babies who have had chronic diarrhea and vomiting, and it is absolutely essential to the recovery of your pup. This is another good item always to have on hand. 
• Get a Bottle of Immodium AD, or any other anti-diarrhea medication. 
• Get an anti-nausea medication. 
• Get a Bottle of Injectable Penicillin. You can get this at a feed store or order through a catalogue [see my Save Money Tips]. You should always have a bottle of penicillin on hand. 
• Get a 5cc or a 10 cc syringe. Always have these on hand. 
• Get a box of 100 3cc syringes. Always have these on hand. 
• Buy a box of 100, 1" long, 22 gauge Needles. Always have these on hand. 
• Buy some cotton balls (or gauze pads). 
• Buy a bottle of Betadine, or some other topical disinfectant. 
• Buy some Nutri-Cal, or some other calorie-replacement supplement at your pet or feed store. 
• Buy some White Rice. 
• Buy (or make) some Chicken Broth. 
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HOW TO USE THIS STUFF
• Immediately administer about 50 ccs of Ringers, per 10 lb. of body weight, subcutaneously (under the skin) of your pup. DO THIS EVERY TWO HOURS UNTIL YOUR PUP IS BETTER. Make sure the Ringers are body temperature. You do not want either to chill, or to overheat, your pup. Remember: BODY TEMPERATURE! 
• Make sure you have installed the catheter to the bag of fluids properly, and that all of the air bubbles have been washed out of the tubing. Give it a test to see if it works. When you're sure it does, use a cotton ball and some Betadine to disinfect the puppy's skin, and then insert the needle you've placed at the end of the catheter tube under the puppy's skin. [You do not stick the needle directly into the puppy's back, or stick it in his spine. You simply lift the puppy's skin with the fingers of one hand, and then gently push the needle just under the surface of the skin with the other at an angle]. Start at the base of your puppy's neck, to the left of the spine, and administer the appropriate amount of fluids into your pup by releasing the valve on the catheter at full tilt. When the appropriate amount of fluids has gone into your pup, withdraw the needle and again disinfect the skin - and also pinch the hole left by the needle for a few seconds so the fluids don't run back out of the pup. (There will be a large swelling under the puppy's skin which will be about gone, absorbed into the pup, by the time the two hours are up, and his next administration is due.) [Remember to insert the needle subcutaneously (or sub-q for short)]. NOTE: If your puppy has been vomiting and or has had profuse diarrhea prior to his first administration of fluids, give him twice the recommended amount on his first dose, and then go back to the recommended amount for his next dose two hours later. IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS UNDERSTANDING ANY OF THIS, CONSULT A VETERINARIAN FOR ADVICE BEFORE YOU WORK ON YOUR PUP. 
• Continue to give your pup the recommended dose, every two hours, until your puppy has recovered. With each administration of fluids, you should insert the needle about an inch lower than where you put it in the last time, but on the other side of the spine, alternating sides with each dosage - until you get close to being 3 inches from the puppy's tail. On the next dosage, go back up to the level of the base of your puppy's neck, but start on the opposite side of the spine from where you first began. Follow this same procedure, every two hours, until your puppy is better. Again, each dosage is under the skin. 
• After you administer the first dose of ringers, it is time to use the Pedialyte. Take your 5 or 10 cc syringe (no needle, just the syringe) and withdraw pedialyte into it. You want to give the pup 5ccs of Pedialyte, per 10 lb. of body weight, every 2 hr., orally (in his mouth) right after you run the fluids under his skin. Sit the puppy down between your legs, with his back to you, and then tilt his head back so he's looking up. Put the syringe in his mouth (again, without a needle) and gradually disperse the appropriate amount of Pedialyte, until it's swallowed. Be careful of gagging or choking the pup. If your puppy vomits the Pedialyte back out, withdraw some more out of the bottle and put some more right back in the pup's mouth, until he keeps the proper amount down. Yes it can be messy, but it is absolutely essential to his life that he retain fluids. Sometimes you can just pour Pedialyte into a bowl and let the pup lap it up to his heart's content. Remember, if he throws it up, he doesn't have it in him, so you've got to withdraw more and put it back, until he keeps it down. Do this every two hours until your pup is better. 
• Give your pup ½ cc of Nutri-Cal (per 10 lb. of body weight), orally, every two hours after his dose of Pedialyte. This will give your pup some rich nutrients that, believe me, he really is going to need. 
• Give your pup ¼ cc of Immodium AD anti-diarrhea orally, per 10 lb. of body weight (using a 3cc syringe without a needle), every other two hours, right after you've given him his oral dose of Nutri-Cal. Again, if he throws it up, put it back in. Sometimes, however, this can irritate the dog's stomach. If you notice your pup keeps down the Pedialyte, but vomits right after you give him the Immodium AD, then you should probably forget about using the Immodium. It is much more critical that your dog get the fluids and nutrients, so if your dog reacts to the Immodium (or Pepto Bismol, or whatever), stop using it. 
• Give your pup ¼ cc anti-nausea medication, right after, and in exactly the same way, as with the above. Again, if your pup seems to be reacting to this too, forget about using it, and just concentrate on the fluids - the fluids are the most important part. 
• Give your pup a shot of penicillin. ONLY GIVE THIS SHOT EVERY OTHER DAY. Use your 3 cc syringe, with the 1", 22-gauge needle, and withdraw ½ cc of penicillin into the syringe (for every 10 lb. of body weight). Point the needle upwards and flick your finger against the syringe so that all of the air bubbles go to the top. Depress the plunger of the syringe, with the needle still pointed upward, until all of the air has been removed. Then deliver an intra-muscular injection. To do this, disinfect the skin of the meaty portion of one of the pup's rear legs, and insert the needle just to the rear of the center of the meatiest part. (There is a large nerve that runs down the centerline, and you want to avoid damaging this nerve - ASK YOUR VET IF YOU ARE UNSURE AS TO WHAT YOU ARE DOING). Push the needle in about half-way and depress the plunger all the way to deliver the penicillin. The penicillin does not harm the parvovirus (or corona, coccidia, or whatever). What it does is prevent secondary infection. Again, only give the penicillin every other day, and switch back and forth between each of the pup's rear legs, with each injection, to allow healing. Vigorously rub a cotton ball with disinfectant over the injection site when you're done with each injection. 
• Mix the cooked white rice with a little chicken broth and see if your pup will eat it. If he doesn't eat it, throw the rice away and make a new batch six hours later, and try again. Keep trying every six hours until the pup begins to nibble at it. NEVER GIVE UP ON YOUR PUP UNTIL IT EITHER DIES OR EATS. KEEP TRYING AND DON'T LOSE HOPE. SPEAK KINDLY AND LOVINGLY TO YOUR PUP, AND STAY WITH HIM AS OFTEN AS POSSIBLE TO GIVE HIM MORAL SUPPORT. [Remember when you were a child, how much better it felt to have your parent(s) close to you when you were sick? Your puppy's spirits are raised too when you're around to comfort him. NEVER underestimate the power of LOVE in healing the very sick...] 
• IF YOUR PUP BEGINS TO EAT YOU'VE MADE IT. Do not feed your pup his regular meal at this point, as his stomach lining is much too sensitive to tolerate it, but you can add some Nutri-Cal to the rice and chicken broth. Feeding the pup rice will do two things: 1) it will give him some nutrition, and 2) it will begin to firm-up his stool. As the pup's stool begins to firm up, you can begin to add some of his regular kibble to the rice after about two days, gradually increasing the amount of kibble, until his stool is completely firm again, and his rice is completely replaced by his regular food. 
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THINGS TO REMEMBER:
If your pup dies, and you did all of the above, please understand that even under 24 hr. veterinary care, pups still have a high mortality rate with parvovirus, and reassure yourself that you did everything you possibly could. In fact, many vets will tell you that a pup has a much greater chance of survival staying at home, with this kind of treatment, because of the supportive care, and familiar surroundings, that only his home could offer. There are certain things such as jugular IV fluid therapy, and plasma transfusions, which of course you are not set up to perform at home - but remember, this advice is for those who cannot afford to take their pup to a vet. 
I invite you to show this advice to your vet and have him clarify, explain, or amend any of these steps until you feel comfortable with all of the procedures. Parvovirus, etc. is serious business, and the better you understand these procedures, and the quicker you act on implementing them when you see the first signs of parvo, the better chance your pup has of pulling through this critical disease. These are important lessons to learn. I hope you never experience parvovirus with any of your dogs; it's a terrible disease. But, if you do, I hope this article will assist you in saving the life of your beloved pup. If not, you can be assured you did everything in your power for your pup. Good luck - and if your pup makes it, congratulations!
Sincerely, 
California Jack